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Tag paolo brunelli

Ice cream: summer 2018 trends

The solstice of last June 21 gave the official green light to summer 2018. A summer which, however, from a weather point of view has not yet shown itself fully. However, it is clear that the ice cream season, the most intense, the truest, the most beautiful, has already begun.

A walk by the sea, an outing in the most fascinating places from a tourist point of view, a tour of the avenues of our Italian villages and, almost invariably, ice cream: the Italian summer is this too. For young people who hope to find their first love, for parents who accompany their children and for the wisest who find refreshment on summer nights.

We parted ways with the winter trends, we find ourselves with the tastes of summer. Many of these, moreover, have already been presented during the Gambero Rosso 2018 Gelaterie d’Italia Guide event, created with Orion, and held at Sigep in Rimini. Gentlemen, there is a predominant color: green.

Green not only because it is the characterizing color of nature, the countryside and the quality of the 0 km ingredients, but also because it is the chromatic effect of the most tasted flavours.

Some clarification is a must to avoid repetition in the course of the post.

First: extravagance is the order of the day. Globalization has also opened up the diffusion of ingredients and products that are not exactly classic. Above all: the pork flavor comes from the USA, broad beans and pecorino from Italy.

Second: registering a brand is becoming customary to avoid duplication and imitation of more innovative tastes. Rosemary Baby, with a raspberry and rosemary flavour, and Venere Nera, with a blackberry flavored with lavender, are the most striking examples.

Third and last: the strongest trend. A vegan, healthy, sustainable ice cream with aromatic herbs, spices and essential oils: the line is now drawn. Ginger, cinnamon, vegetable ingredients to fully replace animal ones, rose essential oil syrup: will they be able to undermine hazelnut and chocolate?

It’s becoming a classic

It is now becoming a classic. Or it already has. Pistachio is one of the most requested flavors in 2018. It is among the most chosen flavours, it has rightfully entered the artisan gelato tradition, it is a simple recipe, it is good for a number of reasons.

Where is the news? In pairings: from the USA they suggest it with lime, from South America with ricotta, from Europe they combine it with fruit and orange, in Italy they increasingly link it to wines as in the case of passito. Speaking of orange, a small digression on the pistachio theme: watch out for the kumquat, also commonly known as the Chinese mandarin.

But green is not only pistachio: we also find it in mint paired with wild fennel, in green apple with cinnamon essential oil (always arriving from America) and, if you like, in olive oil that even goes well with basil better if red.

Alcohol goes well with ice cream

Until now we were used to seeing it in combination: a drink or a cocktail together with ice cream for an aperitif. Today we also find it as an ingredient: beer and vermouth and ginger are the most suitable, but also Lagavulin whiskey and Chardonnay apples and pistachio. However, keep an eye on the production techniques: alcohol complicates the creaming of the ice cream, it is necessary to reduce the sugar.

Basically less sugar and more panache.

Super food also affects “ice cream”

From the Accademia dei Maestri Gelatieri comes the solution that combines taste and greeting: moringa, like the homonymous plant that grows in India at the foot of the Himalayas, a super food appreciated for its beneficial virtues with 9 essential amino acids, 27 vitamins, 46 different antioxidants and many mineral salts.

New techniques for sustainability: nitrogen arrives

There is a new technique that aims to establish itself: it is the nitrogen one: cream based on the desired flavor wrapped in a cloud of nitrogen. Electricity consumption is reduced and water consumption is completely eliminated. Objective: to create a quality product, easily customizable, and save money.

With the halo-halo you make it big on social networks and in taste

It is certainly the king of social media, the most photographed, the most instagrammable, perhaps it is also one of the strangest: it is the halo-halo, it comes from the dessert tradition of the Philippines.

It is not a classic ice cream made with cream, milk, sugar and fruit. Red and white beans, condensed milk, mixed with various fruits according to taste and recipes (even online you can find hundreds of them), necessary coconut, sometimes purple potatoes (they help to give that very purplish colour, with the perfect nuance, for the approval of fans on social networks). Halo-Halo means mix-mix. Or mix everything for the benefit of a like.

Waiting for Godot
Beckett built one of the most famous plays of the mid-twentieth century on it. Mr. Godot kept waiting, almost nothing is known about him, we only know that “he won’t come today, he will come tomorrow”. Black ice cream is to gastronomy what Godot is to the theatre: will it be the right year for his definitive affirmation? Taken from the ash obtained from the coconut and the consequent extraction of activated carbon, we have been talking about black ice cream for some years now. In a world, however, still tied to emotions, still tied to colors.

Quality, training and innovation are still the keywords for summer 2018 ice cream. Refinement, variety, territoriality and proximity: many different ways to enrich your Facebook jewellery.

ANTONELLO MINOIA

Freelance journalist, with a huge passion for carbohydrates, for sport and for all that is writing, texts, contents and communication. As a child I wrote fairy tales, when I grew up I wanted to be a poet or a writer. They told me: “Don’t tell stories.” And instead, that’s exactly what I do: I tell stories.

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    Interview with Paolo Brunelli, FB testimonial

    The hills of Agugliano and the sea of Senigallia, the experimentation and technique typical of jazz, the family tradition and the strong inclination to technology and innovation, the classicism of chocolate and the ability to deal with changes in taste: to change the history of such a popular product, for all budgets, like ice cream, you need to have the desire to take it even beyond modernity . Music (it is appropriate to say) and score by Paolo Brunelli, born in 1965, from the Marches, Master of the homonymous Gelateria Cioccolateria in the province of Ancona.

    Photo by brambillaserrani.it

    Let’s start right from the music. All his creative experience seems to be guided by music and brought back to music. What values does it bring you?
    Music, jazz in particular, has been a part of my life for a long time and is still a part of it today. It led me to discover an important model to work on: knowing the technique in an iron way to then strongly develop improvisation and, improvising and experimenting, incorporate as much technique as possible to reach a higher level.
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    The family business has deep roots, in 1934 in Agugliano. How important is it to have grown up in a family of restaurateurs, how important is family tradition in the ability to improvise and experiment?

    Having a background of taste memories is essential in my opinion. The ability to recognize tastes, to know how to dominate the sense of smell, also in relation to traditional cuisine, is very important for developing one’s own perception. Experimenting in the cold and in the pastry also passes through these memories, these experiences, because it is the basis of knowing how to innovate. Since the early 1980s I have been able to develop my career, also by being at my mother’s side. And, every step was devoted to innovation and experimentation, having clear in mind, however, what the foundations were.

    Best chocolate ice cream in Italy according to the Gelaterie d’Italia 2017 guide, three cones also according to the 2018 guide are just the latest awards. How much are these prizes worth?

    They are certainly important, from a business point of view and from a personal point of view. But I am convinced that these acknowledgments must come after a process of credibility and a lot of work. The end consumer recognizes the rewards, but truly appreciates the journey you’ve made. If there isn’t a real and sincere relationship with the consumer, if there isn’t research, training and experimentation, the awards and titles remain only on paper and don’t offer the added value they deserve.</span

    Is the quality of the raw materials or continuous research more important in the success of a pastry chef and an ice cream parlor?

    Definitely both. The high quality of the raw materials is certainly the basis of the product. But personal and professional growth, research, the desire to work on oneself and on one’s own product must be grafted onto this basis. In this sense, the modern gelateria must look to the future, must be able to offer a product that winks at technology and innovation. The new generations must continually work on training, even in sectors and areas not strictly connected to ours. I’m thinking of beverages, of traditional cooking classes. We must always be growing, in formation.

    Chocolate is certainly a distinctive mark of your own and of your creations. But if you had to choose your favorite flavour, which one would you recommend?

    I would say hazelnut, among the most traditional. But we must never forget that even the pushed tradition must be innovated, it must be expanded. This is what I also recommend to the younger generations: always innovate, look for new paths to taste. I am thinking of gastronomic grafts, olive oil, spices, cheeses. We must also be able to look at new tastes. There are already new frontiers in this sense. We have to work on those.

    Photo by brambillaserrani.it

    Ice cream in particular is becoming a real Italian excellence. What are the margins for improvement and what are the risks of excessive diffusion?

    We must take advantage of technology, innovation and training to overturn the sector and always recompose it according to new rules. New ferment is maturing, the desire to innovate is growing because the challenges are new. I could say that the old ice cream parlor is now dead. If we have the ability to always study and create new styles, we break down the risk of Italian sounding and push the limit to reach further and further. In doing so, the Italian school will never be reachable.

    After Avanguardia Gelato, he also published Gelateria for all seasons. From creamy to pralines, 365 days of delicious ideas. Is the secret also in sharing experiences?

    Never be afraid to share your experiences. Because the exchange of knowledge remains decisive even in the sectors of haute patisserie and ice cream. We almost need to share our ideas, even small personal secrets.

    “Gelateria for all seasons” in addition to being the title of your latest book, is it also a strong vision in overcoming the limit of periodicity?

    Inevitably, ice cream is a product that is mainly consumed in the summer. But there are ways to overcome this limit. Also in this case innovation comes to meet us. The strategies can be different and all valid. We have to take advantage of technology to bring ice cream into the homes of Italians, so as to be able to consume it even in winter. We have to bring modern ice cream to haute cuisine with experimentation. We have to work on seasonal adjustment through the proposal of ever new tastes linked to the quality of the products and through contaminations with traditional cuisine.

    ANTONELLO MINOIA

    Freelance journalist, with a huge passion for carbohydrates, for sport and for all that is writing, texts, contents and communication. As a child I wrote fairy tales, when I grew up I wanted to be a poet or a writer. They told me: “Don’t tell stories.” And instead, that’s exactly what I do: I tell stories.

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